Six-look collection / 2026

Below the Surface

When distraction disappears, construction becomes a record of instinct.

The six Below the Surface models standing together at the end of the runway
Runway finale / 2026
Year
2026
Type
Collection / Patternmaking / Garment construction
Role
Concept, design, pattern development, fitting, construction, and technical documentation
Materials
Denim / Linen / Hardware / Waxed and distressed surfaces
Methods
Patternmaking / Canadian smocking / Lacing / Asymmetric closures / Hand finishing

Project statement

Solitude as a working method.

I began Below the Surface with the psychological space of a cave: a place where outside noise falls away and the body becomes newly present. Rather than illustrating that environment, I treated solitude as a working method. Repeated lines, compressed surfaces, lacing, curved seams, and controlled volume allowed decisions to accumulate across six bodies. The collection moved between denim and linen, rigidity and collapse, and deliberate pattern systems and the unexpected behavior of cloth. Waxing, distressing, Canadian smocking, asymmetric closures, and hand finishing gave each look evidence of its making. My role extended from research and illustration through pattern development, fitting, construction, and technical documentation. The resolved collection is less a picture of darkness than a record of what can become visible when attention is sustained long enough.

Six models wearing the complete Below the Surface collection in the studio
Studio collection / Six resolved looks

The collection / Look by look

Runway first. The full studio record follows.

Every available angle is grouped by look: runway images first, followed by the complete professional studio sequence. Use the arrows or image markers to compare proportion, surface, closure, and movement.

Development

Drawing, drape, pattern, revision.

The research becomes useful only when it changes a construction decision. These records trace the collection from visual field to silhouette and cloth.

Below the Surface design board with illustrations, material swatches, palette, and research imagery
Design board / Silhouette, palette, and material field
Four watercolor Below the Surface look illustrations arranged across two sheets
Illustration sequence / Four developing looks
Cream cloth draped asymmetrically across a dress form in the fashion studio
Draping study / Gravity revising the drawing

Construction at close range

The system is held in the details.

Compression, frog closures, directional drape, and topstitching carry the collection’s logic into the finished garments.

Close studio view of the compressed and smocked back of the charcoal vest
Surface study / Compressed vest back
Close studio view of a cropped charcoal jacket with frog closures and the laced trousers beneath it
Construction detail / Frog closures and lacing
Close studio view of a quilted black panel wrapping diagonally across an olive jacket
Construction detail / Diagonal panel

Technical record

Construction made legible.

Technical documentation and fitting notes preserve the decisions behind the six resolved looks.

Record

  • Designed, patterned, and constructed by Max Michael Miller
  • Presented at the IU Fashion Design B.A. runway, 2026
Read the collection’s press record Next project / 2025Soft Armor